Basic Sewing

Page One:         Master Your Machine
Current Page:   Basic Stitches
Page Three:      Setting Up a Cutting Surface
Page Four:        Basic Sewing Equipment

SEWING TECHNIQUES

8 Basic Stitches

During preparation for hand stitching refer to the Thread, Needle & Stitch Chart and have your thimble at your fingertips.  Practicing a new stitch on two pieces of the fabric before you work on your project will make your stitches more even and sewing more pleasurable. 

Running-Stitch.  Use a thin long needle like sizes 7 or 8.  Weave the point in and out of the fabric before pulling the thread through while keeping the stitches even in length.

Back-Stitch.  Use a short needle.  Make a stitch through your fabric pulling the thread through.  Then pierce the needle in halfway back through the first stitch and make another full stitch.  Continue this method along the stitching line.

Combination-Stitch.  Make three to four running stitches, then one back stitch to lock in the seam.  this back stitch will prevent the stitch from pulling.

Overcasting. On heavier fabrics, projects with raw edges and fabrics that fray easily make one stitch at a time over the edge the pull the thread through.  when working with lightweight fabrics make several stitches before pulling the thread through.  To prevent puckering the material do not pull the thread tight.

Overhanding.  Take short easy over-and-over stitches along the edge of the seam. Baste edges together to prevent slipping using a short fine needle and strong thread.  Turn the raw edges down 1/4 inch when overhanding together.

Fig. 5. Overhanding

Hemming or Whipping.  Bring your needle out of fold in position for the first stitch.  Diagonally inserting the needle in the fabric catch one or two threads and the bring the needle through.  Pull the thread through the make another stitch. never draw the thread tight.

Running-Hem or Vertical Hemming.  Slip knot inside hem and bring your needle out at the fold.  Just outside the hem opposite where the needle came out of the fold, take up one or two threads of fabric and bring needle out a stitch length ahead in the hem as close to the turned edge as possible.

Fig. 7. Running Hem or Vertical Hemming

Slip-Stitch.  This stitch is for invisibility rather than for strength.  Turn hem and baste near turned edge, then turn under raw edge and stitch.  Catch needle in a thread of fabric and then in hem turn, keeping stitches easy unless fabric is heavy.  where there is no strain on the stitch spacing may be 1/2 inch apart.  Place stitches close together in skirt hems and heavy fabrics.

Fig. 1. Running Stitch

Fig. 2. Back Stitch

Fig. 3. Combination Stitch  

Fig. 4. Overcasting

Fig. 6. Hemming or Whipping

Fig. 8. Slip Stitch