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SEWING MEASUREMENTS Page
One: Measuring the Body |
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Purchased Pattern Adjustments
Know Your Body Type Many of our readers try to use one make of pattern over another because they think its cut more closely conforms to their body measurements. By knowing how your size or the size for who the garment is to be made varies from the average, you can easily make the adjustments making any pattern fit. Adjusting the patterns before cutting will result in a minimum of required changes when the garment is ready for fitting. I believe that all patterns sold need some individualization of measurements. Most of the time the changes are few and of slight differences, but if your garment is to look custom made, you must customize the patterns. Save time and effort by knowing what changes are required and making them in your pattern before you start to cut. Most modern patterns are made for women who are 5 feet 6 inches tall with hips 2 to 3 inches larger than their busts. Check your chart measurements against the individual pattern pieces and then adjust your pattern to the wearer. To help you see what I mean by differing body types examine the drawings below. |
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All Size 40. All figures shown here are in the size 40 group. Bust and hip lines give problems here. The average figure has no problem using a purchased pattern, the short figure has to shorten the pattern both above and below the waistline, whereas the tall type has to lengthen the pattern both above and below the waistline. High, large bust may have to add 1/2 to 1 inch. Low bust, large waist should add fullness for full low bust. Broad shoulder narrow hip should adjust the skirt width.
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All Size 14. The figures on the top row right, would be body typed for a pattern at the same size, that is to size 14. You can clearly see the differences. The broad shoulder type would better do with a size 16 pattern and narrowing the skirt. The narrow-shoulder with the large hip type would find it easier to use a size 12 pattern then enlarging the skirt. The tall figure challenge is in the length, so length should be added both above and below the waistline.